tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59405831660731231872024-03-17T20:03:17.459-07:00Mastering the Art of 10 Minute French CookingAn homage to Julia Child and Edouard de PomianeAbout this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.comBlogger59125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-74720156757459267772018-07-05T17:45:00.003-07:002018-07-05T17:45:37.748-07:00Lamb chops oak grilled, pattypan squash "steaks", purslane saladWelcome back to my blog. I read <a href="https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/17737022-provence-1970" target="_blank">Provence 1970</a>, about Julia's transformation, and have joyously followed Julia into France autre mer. Or wherever. The food is good.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0N3hcCj2HPM/Wz65nYbCiCI/AAAAAAAAWck/pRXrJwWpNI42GhWNiXJmB3Z3J-vxH9oPgCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180705_184822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0N3hcCj2HPM/Wz65nYbCiCI/AAAAAAAAWck/pRXrJwWpNI42GhWNiXJmB3Z3J-vxH9oPgCKgBGAs/s200/IMG_20180705_184822.jpg" width="150" /></a>I got a "fire pit" and fired it up tonight for the first time. The oak smoke from the wood my guy cut for me just permeated the squash "steaks" and the lamb chops from <a href="https://www.meatscience.ag.iastate.edu/meat-sales" target="_blank">the Meat Lab</a>. Added purslane salad from Remy at the <a href="https://www.northgrandmall.com/event/north-grand-farmers-market-5/" target="_blank">North Grand Farmer's Market.</a> I was in fire heaven.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3tyaMAcrFgc/Wz656nZTj2I/AAAAAAAAWcs/fO90z8wetBU38UY1u10HPY9BTZsWoEsMACKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180705_184834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3tyaMAcrFgc/Wz656nZTj2I/AAAAAAAAWcs/fO90z8wetBU38UY1u10HPY9BTZsWoEsMACKgBGAs/s200/IMG_20180705_184834.jpg" width="150" /></a>I found a perfect kindling--rolling five sheets of newspaper into a tight rope and tying them in a knot. With a little fire starter and the newspaper kindling under a 2 x 2 square of split oak, it was perfect. No tending necessary.<br />
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It took only 45 minutes from lighting to grilling. And 10 or 12 minutes more to get the squash and lamb to table. I used my Tuscan grill. And plain tongs from the kitchen. My clothes are a little smoky. So much the better.<br />
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Here are the recipes, if you nee them.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x5OpwJf7yDI/Wz66CUKWjNI/AAAAAAAAWcw/Fk3z4BuJ82k6gQtfA4yujQxPZCS5SL4TQCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180705_181443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x5OpwJf7yDI/Wz66CUKWjNI/AAAAAAAAWcw/Fk3z4BuJ82k6gQtfA4yujQxPZCS5SL4TQCKgBGAs/s320/IMG_20180705_181443.jpg" width="240" /></a><b>Lamb chops</b><br />
Choose 1 inch rib chops. Season with salt and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Espelette_pepper" target="_blank">piment d'Espelette</a>. Rub with garlic if you choose. Place on the coals for 5-7 minutes a side, turning as necessary until they are done to t<a href="https://lifehacker.com/5874801/check-how-done-your-steaks-are-with-the-face-test" target="_blank">he face touch</a>. <br />
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<b>Pattypan squash</b><br />
Slice into 3/4 inch "steaks," rub with olive oil, salt, piment d'Espelette. Place on the coals for 5-7 minutes a side, turning as necessary until they are marked by the grill and done to your taste.<br />
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<b>Rosemary butter</b><br />
Chop some rosemary and mix it into 1/2 cup melted butter. Chill in a mold that you bought in Paris (<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Candy-Cheese-Yellow-Flexible-Guttman/dp/B075LYPNXT/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1530837008&sr=1-1&keywords=plastic+butter+molds+yellow+leaf" target="_blank">or Amazon.com</a>). Place a pat on each of the chops and the squash "steaks."<br />
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<b>Purslane salad</b><br />
Pull the leaves (and tender stems) from enough purslane to yield about 3/4 cup per person. Toss with vinaigrette.About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-50399518792108393622013-05-06T19:27:00.001-07:002013-05-06T19:28:02.949-07:00Filets de poisson et asperges, grille<div>
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A springtime treat, with the asparagus and chives. And it is done in 10 minutes. Using the Silpat saves a lot of cleanup.</div>
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Serves 4<br />
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4 four to six ounce fish filets, such as trout, ocean perch, tilapia<br />
1 pound asparagus--thinner is better--lower stems cut off<br />
Cajun seasoning<br />
Herbs de Provence<br />
sea salt<br />
pepper <br />
herbs for garnish, such as scallion tops chopped, chives, chive flowers, capers, thyme</div>
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<div>
Preheat broiler. </div>
<ol>
<li>On a baking pan (half sheet) place one pound thin asparagus, lower stems cut off, and the fish filets, skin side down. </li>
<li>Drizzle all with olive oil, toss the asparagus in the oil, and dust the asparagus and the fish with sea salt. </li>
<li>Season the filets with Cajun seasoning and herbs de Provence. </li>
<li>Broil the fish for three minutes on top or until they are lightly browned. Turn and broil for one or two minutes more, tossing the asparagus as you turn the fish.</li>
<li>[OPTIONAL:] Nap the fish with Hollandaise or herb butter</li>
<li>Garnish with scallion tops, capers, chopped chives, and/or chive flowers.</li>
</ol>
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About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-65720477981170229332013-04-29T04:39:00.000-07:002013-05-01T18:20:20.733-07:00Roasted pepper soup -- Soupe Catalane aux poivrons<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2j4pbNG67tg/UX2HQD61qAI/AAAAAAAAAcI/s_HQI6reWJY/s1600/IMG_3335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2j4pbNG67tg/UX2HQD61qAI/AAAAAAAAAcI/s_HQI6reWJY/s400/IMG_3335.JPG" width="400" /></a>Sitting in the dentist's office--the dentists who inspired Jane Smiley's novella <i>Age of Grief</i>, about a husband-wife dentist practice--I found a recipe that I dictated into my phone while sitting in the waiting room. And it is really 1 minute.<br />
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<b>Roasted pepper soup shots </b><br />
one 16 ounce jar fire roasted red peppers with your juices.<br />
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar.<br />
1 fourth cup olive oil.<br />
Salt and pepper.<br />
Blend and serve in shot glasses.<br />
<i>Bon Appetite</i> October 2012 page 104<br />
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I wondered if there is anything like this in Julia or de Pomaine. Turned out <br />
there is: MAFC II p. 21, Soup Catalane aux poivrons, which I adapted and served last week to Rich and Julie.<br />
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Serves four as a first course<br />
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1 large garlic clove <br />
one16 ounce jar fire roasted red peppers with their juices<br />
1/4 cup cocktail onions <br />
2 tablespoons
sherry<br />
1/2 cup chicken stock <br />
1/4 cup olive oil<br />
1/2 cup cooked rice, preferably brown basmati <br />
Salt and pepper <br />
<ol>
<li>Peel the garlic and chop it in a food processor. </li>
<li>Add everything but the rice and blend until smooth.</li>
<li>Pour into a small sauce pan, add the rice, and heat. </li>
</ol>
About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-48028163714120334082013-04-21T10:54:00.001-07:002013-04-21T10:54:33.952-07:00Tartare de saumon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Easter brunch 2013 continues, with salmon tartare. This is a sort of French ceviche, where lemon juice "cooks" raw fish. It's really really good. It made a nice little starter for us, before the quiche.<br />
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This is another lightning dish if the fishmonger (butcher here in Iowa) dices or minces the fish, as the friendly folks at Fareway did for me. Don't dare use a food processor, as it mangles the fishie's tissues. <br />
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I suppose verrines are really supposed to have layers. That's easy to do, such as <a href="http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2003/05/05/earlyshow/living/recipes/main552430.shtml" target="_blank">Thomas Keller's with a layer of red onion crème fraiche</a>, or one I did yesterday with capers. A red layer of marinated roasted pepper, drained from the jar and chopped would be nice too.<br />
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These "verrine" glasses are actually votive candle holders from Walmart, 88¢ each. <br />
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Serves 4<br />
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8 ounces of salmon filet (belly if possible) cut into 1/8 in dice or minced<br />
10 chive spears or 2 green onion tops<br />
2 teaspoons of Dijon mustard, preferably Maille<br />
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil<br />
3 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1 medium lemon)<br />
salt and pepper<br />
<ol>
<li>Chop the chives or green onion tops very finely</li>
<li>In a bowl, beat the chives, mustard, olive oil, and lemon juice into an emulsion.</li>
<li>Toss the salmon into the dressing and season.</li>
<li>Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. </li>
<li>Serve in small "verrine" glasses, garnished with chives or green onion tops.</li>
</ol>
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<br />About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-69230293973281692432013-04-14T12:27:00.001-07:002013-04-14T12:30:54.149-07:00Melon and champagne soup<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bVKapofrexg/UWsA3xBMteI/AAAAAAAAAbc/5nL36bNbxWo/s1600/IMG_3122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="325" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bVKapofrexg/UWsA3xBMteI/AAAAAAAAAbc/5nL36bNbxWo/s400/IMG_3122.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The bubbly is <span id="internal-source-marker_0.4053701265171241" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Segura Viedas Brut Reserva 2011 cava</span></span></span></td></tr>
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We had a champagne brunch for Easter, just the three of us. Salmon tartare, Maddie's quiche. And to start this melon soup. It's lightning fast. I bought some melon cubes (Chilean) at the store, popped them in the blender with the juices and bubbly, and -- ZAP! -- summrery froth.<br />
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I found some little airplane bottles of bubbly, so it's possible to make an ordinary day special by making this speedy soup. This is a another dentist waiting room special, adapted from Shape magazine. But it's really elegant, and it sort of tickles the nose. Or maybe that's my imagination. <br />
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Serves 4<br />
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2 cups cantaloupe chunks<br />
1/4 cup orange juice<br />
1 tablespoon juice<br />
1/4 cup champagne<br />
fresh mint<br />
<ol>
<li>In a blender, puree all the ingredients except the mint until frothy. </li>
<li>Garnish with chopped mint</li>
</ol>
<br />About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-27567382693235841782013-04-13T05:36:00.000-07:002013-04-14T13:30:55.558-07:00Savory souffles<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TPK8OwmY1nI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/aW_ll1TfwSo/s1600/IMG_0662.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544701052996605554" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TPK8OwmY1nI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/aW_ll1TfwSo/s320/IMG_0662.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 214px; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
Souffles are pretty easy to do once you've got the hang of separating eggs and whipping them into stiff peaks and folding them in (MAFC I 157). Once you have the trick of this, it's possible to vary this infinitely by adding leftovers to the bottom of the dish before turning in the souffle mixture, or putting half the mixture in and then the leftovers, and then the rest.<br />
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And of course you can vary the condensed cream soups many, many ways. Campbell's Cream of Celery is a good base for fish souffles, as is Cream of Shrimp (MAFC I pp. 166-171). The Campbell's Cream of Chicken and Herbs is a good base for poultry souffles. Cream of Mushroom with Roasted Garlic is good too. These taste less like, well, canned soups!<br />
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Serves 4 as a starter<br />
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Preheat the oven to 425<br />
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1 10oz can cream of mushroom soup (or cream of chicken, cream of broccoli, etc.)<br />
4 egg yolks<br />
4 egg whites<br />
OPTIONAL: grated cheddar cheese</div>
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<ol class="directions" id="directions"><div>
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<li>In bowl combine soup and yolks.</li>
<li>Beat egg whites until stiff.</li>
<li>Fold into soup mixture.</li>
<li>Turn into a buttered one-liter souffle or casserole dish (olive oil spray is fine) or individual souffle dishes. The mixture should fill just over half of the dish.</li>
<li>Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese if desired.</li>
<li>Bake at 425 for 25 minutes (15 minutes for individual ones).</li>
<li>Serve immediately.</li>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TFCwBWHioDc/URJ2PuWoPxI/AAAAAAAAAS8/np_q9sYgEAw/s1600/IMG_0928.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TFCwBWHioDc/URJ2PuWoPxI/AAAAAAAAAS8/np_q9sYgEAw/s320/IMG_0928.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html<br />
2 <a class="ingredient" href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html#">eggs</a> <br />
1 can <a class="ingredient" href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html#">cream of mushroom soup</a> <a class="to_shopping_list to_list " href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html#" rel="1 can cream of mushroom soup" title="Add to shopping list"></a> <br />
1 <a class="ingredient" href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html#">small onion</a>, chopped <br />
1/8 tsp. <a class="ingredient" href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html#">garlic powder</a> <a class="to_shopping_list to_list " href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html#" rel="1/8 tsp. garlic powder" title="Add to shopping list"></a> <br />
1/2 tsp. <a class="ingredient" href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html#">salt</a><br />
1-10 oz. pkg. <a class="ingredient" href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html#">frozen spinach</a>, thawed and drained<br />
1/8 tsp. <a class="ingredient" href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/94083/simple-spinach-souffle.html#">nutmeg</a><br />
<ol>
<li>Heat oven to 350</li>
<li>Put eggs, soup, onion, garlic powder and salt into blender and blend for 30 seconds</li>
<li>Add spinach and nutmeg and blend for 30 seconds</li>
<li>Pour into an ungreased casserole dish</li>
<li>Bake 50-60 minutes</li>
</ol>
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About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-57175654562662219312013-04-06T12:16:00.002-07:002013-04-06T12:16:20.073-07:00Os à moelle grillés: Marrow bones<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NH414uF9yH0/UT0-QYceJgI/AAAAAAAAAas/CCWtfPprlcc/s1600/IMG_3073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NH414uF9yH0/UT0-QYceJgI/AAAAAAAAAas/CCWtfPprlcc/s400/IMG_3073.JPG" width="400" /></a><span style="font-size: small;">On <a href="http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_Daguerre" target="_blank">Rue Dauguerre</a> last fall, the night the Beaujolais Nouveau was released, I sat at the banquette at <a href="http://www.parislogue.com/dining-out/dining-alone-in-paris.html" target="_blank">Le Plan B</a>, next to a well dressed gentleman who was diving into a plate of marrow bones. Cross cut ones, like in the picture below. With a tiny spoon. Very much enjoying himself. </span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Julia has a recipe of sorts for marrow bones (MAFCI p. 19), but it's for poaching them<span style="font-size: small;"> quickly</span> to get the marrow for sauces, like <span style="font-size: small;">sauce <span style="font-size: small;">Bordelaise</span>. (<span style="font-size: small;">You can pull the marrow from stewing bones for this as well, like Osso <span style="font-size: small;">Bucco.) </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fleur_de_sel" target="_blank">fleur de sel</a> is crucial<span style="font-size: small;">. I got some when I was in La Rochelle<span style="font-size: small;">--raked from the Atlantic salt flats nearby<span style="font-size: small;"> (and very expensive<span style="font-size: small;">, for<span style="font-size: small;"> salt). </span></span></span>When J first had it, she was <span style="font-size: small;">skeptical, b<span style="font-size: small;">u<span style="font-size: small;">t<span style="font-size: small;"> one taste and she became a believer.<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">You can eith<span style="font-size: small;">er split the bones len<span style="font-size: small;">gth<span style="font-size: small;">-<span style="font-size: small;">wise or crosswise. <span style="font-size: small;">But because I buy dog bones at Fareway, <span style="font-size: small;">they are always cross-wise<span style="font-size: small;">. And they are not a<span style="font-size: small;">s long as I would like<span style="font-size: small;">. <span style="font-size: small;">The longer they are, the longer th<span style="font-size: small;">ey take to roast. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">There's <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/video/2007/10/18/dining/1194817116711/bone-marrow-by-fergus-henderson.html" target="_blank">a great video</a> of the master, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fergus_Henderson" target="_blank">F</a><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fergus_Henderson" target="_blank">ergus <span style="font-size: small;">Henderson</span></a>,</span> roasting th<span style="font-size: small;">em at Saint John's Bread and Wine. </span>I ate there <span style="font-size: small;">a couple of <span style="font-size: small;">times when I was in London, but never <span style="font-size: small;">had the marrow bones. Next time. J<span style="font-size: small;"> bought me his classic cookbook, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Whole-Beast-Nose-Tail-Eating/dp/0060585366" target="_blank">The Whole Beast: Nos</a><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Whole-Beast-Nose-Tail-Eating/dp/0060585366" target="_blank">e to Tail </a><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Whole-Beast-Nose-Tail-Eating/dp/0060585366" target="_blank">Ea</a><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Whole-Beast-Nose-Tail-Eating/dp/0060585366" target="_blank">ting</a> some years ago. Often she does not much li<span style="font-size: small;">k<span style="font-size: small;">e</span> the <span style="font-size: small;">offal<span style="font-size: small;">/abats, but <span style="font-size: small;">she lapped up the marrow bones. <span style="font-size: small;">And <span style="font-size: small;">the<span style="font-size: small;">n it occurred to me<span style="font-size: small;">: She's <span style="font-size: small;">a <span style="font-size: small;">rancher's daughter. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotos-g187147-d1025231-Le_plan_B-Paris_Ile_de_France.html" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Photos of Le plan B, Paris" height="239" src="http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/02/2e/68/9b/os.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This photo of <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d1025231-Reviews-Le_plan_B-Paris_Ile_de_France.html">Le plan B</a> is courtesy of TripAdvisor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves two as a<span style="font-size: small;"> first cours<span style="font-size: small;">e</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Preheat oven to 450º</span> </span><br />
<div class="crayon article-ingredients-358 p">
<ul class="spip">
<li class="ingredient"> 8 beef shank bones cut crosswise, 2 to 3 inches. Or two bones cut lengthwise, 6 to 8 inches long</li>
<li class="ingredient"> fleur de sel</li>
<li class="ingredient"> <span style="font-size: small;">pepper from a mill</span></li>
<li class="ingredient"> toast made from good French bread </li>
<li class="ingredient">Parsley<br /><br /><ol>
<li>Put the bones in a half sheet pan and roast. Begin checking in 15 minutes until a paring knife inserted penetrates easily. Don't overcook or the marrow will melt away. </li>
<li>Serve with fleur de sel, pepper in a mill, and slices of grilled bread garnished with a chiffonade of parsley.</li>
</ol>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<div class="texte surlignable entry-content" id="preparation">
<div class="crayon article-texte-358 instructions">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--hw6-fl_I0E/UT0-Pqp5RNI/AAAAAAAAAak/_w2qQQ4ziFM/s1600/IMG_3075.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--hw6-fl_I0E/UT0-Pqp5RNI/AAAAAAAAAak/_w2qQQ4ziFM/s320/IMG_3075.JPG" width="308" /></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotos-g187147-d1025231-Le_plan_B-Paris_Ile_de_France.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Photos of Le plan B, Paris" src="http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/03/60/62/5f/charcuterie-iberique.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This photo of <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d1025231-Reviews-Le_plan_B-Paris_Ile_de_France.html">Le plan B</a> is courtesy of TripAdvisor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
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<a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotos-g187147-d1025231-Le_plan_B-Paris_Ile_de_France.html"><br /></a>About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-62691495367457135722013-03-31T19:05:00.001-07:002013-05-23T17:05:44.832-07:00Spinach, pear, roquefort & walnut salad<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I had this sweet salad first in <a href="http://cafe501.com/" target="_blank">a little restaurant</a> in Edmond, Oklahoma, my home town. It was in the space where I had my first job, a clerk in a doughnut shop. We clerks got all the doughnuts and ice cream we could eat. Great perks. I lost the job when my hair got too long and I refused to cut it. Ah the Sixties! The restaurant is now kind of shishi. Like Edmond now. Now I eat sweet salads instead of doughnuts. Ah, my sixties!<br />
<br />
If you have the walnuts and bacon ready, this is five minutes to put together. If you don't--and have an oven on for something else--you can cook the bacon and the walnuts while other things are going.<br />
<br />
Sugared walnuts are kind of a pain to make, and messy gooey to clean up. So an easy (and easy
clean-up) method is to simply put eight ounces of walnuts (whole or
pieces) on a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silpat" target="_blank">Silpat</a> in a baking pan, spray with cooking spray, and toss with two
tablespoons of sugar. Bake in a 370 to 450 degree oven (depending on
what else you are cooking) for five to ten minutes, shaking once or
twice. Check them after 5 minutes. They will be crisp and only slightly
sugary. Slide the Silpat out of the baking pan and cool. You can add salt or a bit of cayenne pepper or Cajun seasoning.<br />
<br />
5 minutes<br />
Serves 4<br />
<ul>
<li>3 tablespoons vinaigrette</li>
<li>1 tablespoon honey</li>
<li>8 ounces spinach leaves, from a bag--or if not, washed! (romaine works too)</li>
<li>4 strips oven-cooked bacon, crumbled or minced (place bacon on a sheet in a preheated 400 oven for 15-30 minutes)</li>
<li>1 cup crumbled Roquefort or other good blue cheese, such as Maytag</li>
<li>1 pear, cored and cut into eight sections. (An apple corer will help here.)</li>
<li>1 cup toasted or sugared walnuts (or pecans or almonds) </li>
</ul>
<ol>
<li>Combine the vinaigrette and honey and microwave until warm. Start with 10 seconds on high. OR if the honey is too cold to pour, microwave the honey jar until it is warm (start with 15 seconds) and pour the warm honey into the vinaigrette, stirring with a fork to combine. </li>
<li>Chop the pears sections, crumble or mince the bacon, and toss with the dressing.</li>
<li>Add the spinach, the Roquefort, and the walnuts and toss again. </li>
</ol>
About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-27636050554186147282013-03-25T18:32:00.003-07:002013-04-06T07:36:33.972-07:00Coeur à la creme<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/3162NC3CG0L._SX355_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q7CAzbkvEu4/URKJP5F0gBI/AAAAAAAAATs/RKA0ixtb7VE/s1600/IMAG0730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q7CAzbkvEu4/URKJP5F0gBI/AAAAAAAAATs/RKA0ixtb7VE/s400/IMAG0730.jpg" width="266" /></a><br />
I used to love to make this for the kids. We had a little heart-shaped wicker basket, which I would fill and let drain overnight. The kids loved this like cheesecake. And it's so much healthier.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/3162NC3CG0L._SX355_.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/3162NC3CG0L._SX355_.jpg" width="200" /></a>The basket fell apart. So Amazon.com came to my rescue with a purpose-made dish that drains neatly. It's just enough for two, really, 12 ounces. Very romantic as a dessert to share. With proper prior approval by the sharee, of course. <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/miss-manners-a-little-forethought-protects-your-dessert-from-interlopers/2013/03/20/304e9b48-8372-11e2-8074-b26a871b165a_story.html" target="_blank">(Ms Manners has the final word</a> on people who expect one to share when one does not want to).<br />
<br />
Edouard de Pomaine (<i>French Cooking in Ten Minutes</i> p. 140) has this in a much faster form than mine, above. "Beat some heavy cream into farmer's cheese or soft cream cheese. Stir in some sugar and a little powdered cinnamon. This is <i>a super-quick dessert and it's excellent</i> [italics mine!]. You can serve it either with or without vanilla wafers."<br />
<br />
1/2 package of Neufchatel (low fat cream cheese)<br />
1/4 cup creme fraiche or sour cream<br />
1 tablespoon honey<br />
[Optional: 1/4 teaspoon vanilla or 1 teaspoon Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur]<br />
Strawberries, cherries, or other fruits<br />
<ol>
<li>Line a coeur à la creme mold with cheesecloth or paper towel.</li>
<li>Beat the ingredients with a fork and then a whisk until smooth.</li>
<li>Pour into the mold and refrigerate until chilled and set, about 1-2 hours.</li>
<li>Unmold, remove the cloth or paper, and serve with fruit.</li>
</ol>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dt8NjQyMZK4/URJ1LA_U0cI/AAAAAAAAAS0/OYLDpSu_ZRk/s1600/IMG_1054.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dt8NjQyMZK4/URJ1LA_U0cI/AAAAAAAAAS0/OYLDpSu_ZRk/s320/IMG_1054.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-78503558336980081482013-03-17T19:01:00.001-07:002013-03-17T19:01:10.679-07:00Sauteed liver: Abats 101<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-datLyBhWZFI/UUZ1UR_QdjI/AAAAAAAAAbM/7sXjOxhACYA/s1600/IMG_0098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-datLyBhWZFI/UUZ1UR_QdjI/AAAAAAAAAbM/7sXjOxhACYA/s400/IMG_0098.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
There are all kinds of 'abats'--organ meats. (French for slaughterhouse is <span style="font-style: italic;">abattoir</span>.) But liver is the easiest and fastest and healthiest and, well, easiest to take for many people.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/sauteed-calfrsquos-liver">Julia has liver</a> exactly right when she says it<span class="recipe_structure_headnotes"> "cooks hardly more than a minute on each side. Overcooked liver is gray, dry, and disappointing—perfectly sautéed, it is a rosy pink when you cut into it.</span>"<br />
<br />
The photo shows pork liver, my favorite, cut by the Meat Lab into lamelles, a little thicker than the usual. So it took about two minutes a side.<br />
<br />
A lot of paper towels or newspaper will help--to blot the liver and dredge it. If you put it on the counter it makes a huge mess.<br />
<span class="recipe_structure_ingredients"> </span><br />
<ul class="recipe_attr_text">
<li><span class="recipe_structure_ingredients">4 slices (about 1 pound) calf's or pork liver sliced about ½ inch thick</span></li>
<li><span class="recipe_structure_ingredients">Salt and freshly ground pepper</span></li>
<li><span class="recipe_structure_ingredients">½ cup or more seasoned breadcrumbs or flour in a plate</span></li>
<li><span class="recipe_structure_ingredients">3 tablespoons butter and olive oil combined, or <span class="recipe_structure_ingredients">clarified butter</span></span></li>
</ul>
<span class="recipe_structure_ingredients"> </span><br />
<ol>
<li>Heat the butter and/or oil over high heat. Season the liver on one side with salt and pepper.</li>
<li>Dredge the liver in the bread crumbs or flour. Knock the excess of each slice and put each in the skillet. </li>
<li>Cook about a minute on each side, or until it's springy to the touch, golden on the outside and pink on the inside (poke and peek until you can feel the doneness). Be sure to remove the slices in the same order you placed them, so they cook evenly.</li>
</ol>
Julia has <a href="http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/sauteed-calfrsquos-liver">some nice variations</a>. But the best for me is the simplest: plain with Dijon mustard. But it takes only a couple of minutes to chop a bit of that precooked bacon that's always in the frig, adding some scallion and stock or wine and mustard to the drippings to make a sauce (which thicken quickly with the crumbs or flour).<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: black; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: pre; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /></span>About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-48362121793850697612013-03-10T19:21:00.001-07:002013-03-10T19:37:23.651-07:00Salade de tomate ou/et concombre / tomato/cucumber salad<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oH50IfiNDTE/UTKizo5D6lI/AAAAAAAAAYM/konoQRQ8hIA/s1600/IMG_0799.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oH50IfiNDTE/UTKizo5D6lI/AAAAAAAAAYM/konoQRQ8hIA/s400/IMG_0799.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oH50IfiNDTE/UTKizo5D6lI/AAAAAAAAAYM/konoQRQ8hIA/s1600/IMG_0799.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a> The best things are the simplest. I write this in early March, when
there is a lot of snow on the ground. And it is barely above freezing
days. And I hate Iowa. Next pic, please.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qIJgwOglle8/UTKi86uUj5I/AAAAAAAAAYU/i-6WfAaGFgM/s1600/IMG_0798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qIJgwOglle8/UTKi86uUj5I/AAAAAAAAAYU/i-6WfAaGFgM/s400/IMG_0798.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
And I do dream of summer tomatoes. Heirlooms, sure. But also just Burpee garden variety tomatoes. With some basil. No vinaigrette. Maybe some salt and pepper. Maybe not.<br />
<br />
And then maybe some cucumbers. On the deck. (next pic please). Overlooking the miserable tomato vines that I try to grow almost every year, from the glorious smelly young plants the farmers at the market sell before there's anything else to sell, except maybe rhubarb or greens.<br />
<br />
And then, about the fourth of July, I realize, again, that I am no farmer, nor even a vegetable gardener. I am just a tomato eater. And a pretty good one.<br />
<br />
I am, however, an excellent tomato slicer. And that is really all it takes. Some say it doesn't even take that. Some eat tomatoes like apples, whole, just biting into them, and letting the juice go where it goes.<br />
<br />
Not me. I am civilized. See the pics?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-81840996377065496972013-03-05T18:01:00.003-08:002013-03-05T18:06:20.361-08:00Timbales de foies de volaille -- Chicken liver custards<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OLvujZGuAQg/UTKZeVNM0CI/AAAAAAAAAX8/OyeNbx9VHaU/s1600/IMG_3053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OLvujZGuAQg/UTKZeVNM0CI/AAAAAAAAAX8/OyeNbx9VHaU/s400/IMG_3053.JPG" width="398" /></a></div>
This is very much a Ladies Who Lunch kind of thing. 1950s hats and white gloves. I love it. Definitely a <i>Madmen</i> thing. But then MAFC is really an early 60s thing: published in 1961 (vol. 1 p. 174).<br />
<br />
It reminds me of when we went to this time warp French restaurant in midtown Manhattan called <a href="http://www.leperigord.com/">Le Périgord</a> a couple of years ago, with my daughter-in-law. Founded in 1964, it looked like it had the original carpet and the original waiters. I loved the dessert cart, with classics never seen today, like floating island. The fixed price lunch menu had a dish very much like this one.<br />
<br />
Just rich enough to whet the appetite yet light; easy to make; stays warm well; inexpensive ingredients; elegant presentation. And less than 10 minutes into the oven. It also has a million variations, with (and I quote from Julia, p. 174) "ham, turkey, chicken, sweetbreads, salmon, lobster, crab, scallops, mushrooms, asparagus tips, or spinach." <br />
<br />
Serves 4 as a first course<br />
<br />
Preheat oven to 350º <br />
<br />
1 tablespoon butter<br />
1 tablespoon flour<br />
1/2 cup boiling milk<br />
1 cup chicken livers, pressed down (about 8 ounces)<br />
2 eggs<br />
3 tablespoons heavy cream or crème fraiche<br />
1 tablespoon port, Madeira, cognac, sherry, etc.<br />
cooking spray <br />
<ol>
<li>Heat water in a kettle </li>
<li>In a small saucepan, make a béchamel sauce by melting together the butter and the flour, stirring until they foam, without coloring, about 2 minutes. Off heat, beat in the milk and seasoning. </li>
<li>In a food processor or blender on high, puree the livers, eggs, and seasoning for 30 seconds.</li>
<li>Add the béchamel sauce, the cream, and the wine and blend for 15 seconds.</li>
<li>Spray four 1/2 cup ramekins and place them in a skillet or baking pan. Divide the mixture into them and pour boiling water around them, so it comes at least half way up the sides of the ramekins.</li>
<li>Place in the oven for 25 minutes or until a needle or knife comes out clean and the timbales have just begun to shrink from the ramekins. </li>
<li>Run a knife around the edge of each ramekin to loosen the timbale. Invert a serving plate over each and invert to unmold. </li>
<li>Garnish with one of the sauces below. </li>
</ol>
<ul style="margin-left: 40px;">
<li><i>Coulis de tomate: </i>The sauce in the pic is a simplified coulis
consisting of summer tomatoes cored, seeded (not peeled) then food
processed and frozen. </li>
<li><i>Sauce Aurore:</i> Double the amount of béchamel (step 2) and reserve half of it. Add 1 tablespoon tomato puree or tomato paste, and optional chopped fresh herbs. (MAFC I p. 62)</li>
<li><i>Sauce Madère ou Porto:</i> Add 1 tablespoon Madeira or port to 1/2 cup demi glace, brown sauce, or leftover sauce from braised meats (MAFC I p. 75)</li>
<li><i>Sauce Estragon:</i> Stir one tablespoon chopped tarragon into 1/2 cup bdemi glace, brown sauce, or leftover sauce from braised meats (MAFC I p. 75). Off heat and just before serving, beat in 1/2 tablespoon butter. </li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/NY-CD808_LUNCHB_G_20130204185854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/NY-CD808_LUNCHB_G_20130204185854.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887324445904578284461388914012.html" target="_blank">Stephen Yang for The Wall Street Journal</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-51058548206185818812013-03-02T14:18:00.001-08:002013-03-03T17:54:15.438-08:00Shirred eggs -- Oeufs sur le plat -- Oeufs miroir<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-__qpwWLlo7Q/UTIyxOOAkZI/AAAAAAAAAXU/8zuvdNTXVd4/s1600/IMG_3059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-__qpwWLlo7Q/UTIyxOOAkZI/AAAAAAAAAXU/8zuvdNTXVd4/s400/IMG_3059.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
I know I saw <i>The French Chef </i>episode called "Elegant Eggs" (<a href="http://www.wgbh.org/articles/The-French-Chef-Elegance-with-Eggs-6905" target="_blank">the video in a new window</a>) with these cool eggs. But I had forgotten it (as I have most things I saw in the 1960s). So it was with a sense of revelation that I discovered a new (to me) way to fix eggs. And super fast (MAFC I p. 122) and so versatile. You can throw anything on them, almost, including chicken livers!--Julia puts this first! <br />
<br />
Plain (or with cream and cheese) it takes only 5 minutes. With sauteed chicken livers it takes 10 minutes. And they really do come out "perfect," as she says in the video. <br />
<br />
Serves two as a first course<br />
<br />
2 eggs<br />
olive oil cooking spray <br />
[optional:] 2 tablespoons cream or crème fraiche<br />
[optional:] 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan or Swiss cheese<br />
[optional:] chopped herbs or scallion tops <br />
<ol>
<li>Heat the broiler and place the rack in the closest position to it. </li>
<li>Place a half sheet or shallow pan over two burners on high heat and add 1/4 inch water. </li>
<li>Spray small two shallow dishes (3-4" diameter) or ramekins with olive oil cooking spray, place them in the water, and carefully crack an egg into each.</li>
<li>Season lightly with salt and pepper (remember the cheese will add some saltiness). </li>
<li>[optional:] Spoon one tablespoon of the cream over each and grate about 1 tablespoon of the cheese on them.</li>
<li>When the eggs have just begun to set on the bottom (you see the first white), place the pan of water under the broiler so the eggs are almost touching the flame. </li>
<li>Broil for 30 to 60 seconds or until the top has just begun to bubble and set. </li>
<li>Garnish with chopped herbs or scallion tops.</li>
</ol>
<br />
<i>VARIATIONS:</i><br />
<br />
<b>Oeufs sur le plat avec leur foies de volailles </b><br />
<br />
Serves two as a first course<br />
<br />
2 eggs<br />
olive oil cooking spray <br />
1/4 pound chicken livers<br />
1 tablespoon olive oil<br />
1 tablespoon butter <br />
2 tablespoons Port, Madeira, Muscatel, or other fortified wine<br />
<br />
[optional:] chopped herbs or scallion tops <br />
<ol>
<li>Heat a small skillet over high heat.</li>
<li>Dry the livers on paper towels. Season them. </li>
<li>Heat the broiler and place the rack in the closest position to it. </li>
<li>Place a half sheet or shallow pan over two burners on high heat and add 1/4 inch water. </li>
<li>Add the butter and olive oil to the skillet, and when the foam subsides, add the livers. Saute 5 minutes, tossing once or twice so that all the surfaces are browned. When done, the livers will be springy to the touch. Or poke and peek at one. The interior should be rosy pink. Remove to a warm plate and season again if necessary.</li>
<li>Spray
small two shallow dishes (3-4" diameter) or ramekins with olive oil
cooking spray, place them in the water, and carefully crack an egg into
each.</li>
<li>Season lightly with salt and pepper (remember the cheese will add some saltiness). </li>
<li>[optional:] Spoon one tablespoon of the cream over each and grate about 1 tablespoon of the cheese on them.</li>
<li>When
the eggs have just begun to set on the bottom (you see the first
white), place the pan of water under the broiler so the eggs are almost
touching the flame. </li>
<li>Broil for 30 to 60 seconds or until the top has just begun to bubble and set. </li>
<li>Garnish with the livers and chopped herbs or scallion tops.</li>
</ol>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-39908780325076477462013-03-01T18:35:00.002-08:002013-03-01T18:35:19.917-08:00Plat de charcuterie d'Iowa - Is it bacon or not?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2Mgj8iWtIW8/UTFlQI5ezjI/AAAAAAAAAW0/pa_zI2ICiC4/s1600/IMG_3065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2Mgj8iWtIW8/UTFlQI5ezjI/AAAAAAAAAW0/pa_zI2ICiC4/s400/IMG_3065.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
My wife and I had a (dare I say rare?) dispute this morning over whether fancy bacon should be called bacon. The cause was a charcuterie plate I put together with the help of Maddie when I was running late preparing a dinner party for two visiting teachers from Brazil. I wanted to give them a taste of Iowa, and what could be more Iowa than pork? Well, corn-fed pork anyway.<br />
<br />
So I went to<a href="http://welcome.to.wheatsfield.coop/"> Wheatsfield Coop</a> for some old genes pork chops from the <a href="http://harvestpublicmedia.org/article/887/organic-makes-economic-sense-grain-farmers-study-finds/5">Rosman Farm</a>, which I cooked<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5940583166073123187#editor/target=post;postID=707024128557454313"> as Julia suggests</a>. I realized I didn't have an Iowa starter in mind--or much time. So I picked up some charcuterie from <a href="http://laquercia.us/">La Quercia</a>: prosciutto, speck, and <a href="http://laquercia.us/cuts_collar_and_loin_lomo_americano">lomo</a> (which I had never had before). <br />
<br />
I also picked up some Iowa cheeses: Maytag blue (of course), Maytag Munster, and from the Milton Creamery their <a href="http://www.miltoncreamery.com/cheese/prairie-rose.html">Prairie Rose</a>, which looks and tastes as lovely as its name sounds.<br />
<br />
I called my daughter who came over to help clean--and to arrange the charcuterie platter. Great job, as you see. The cornichons (in a coeur à la crème mold) and Maille Dijon were necessary, the halved yellow cherry tomatoes (hot house Iowa btw) gave it color.<br />
<br />
Now to the dispute. This morning I asked J if she liked the bacon appetizer. She didn't very much, as it turned out.<br />
"That's not bacon!"<br />
"Yes it is. It's Iowa Italian bacon but it's bacon."<br />
"No, it's not smoky or salty enough to be bacon."<br />
"We're going to agree to disagree. But next time I'll fry you up some bacon strips for the charcuterie plate."<br />
"Good. Just make them burnt the way I like it."<br />
"Done."<br />
Later I asked some of J's foodie colleagues, when we were at the Drake Diner, if I had a point. They unanimously agreed. With Joyce. Ah. <br />
<br />
I suppose the only things I need to say in the way of a recipe are:<br />
<ol>
<li>This fed four hungry people for a big first course, with crackers and some homemade bread. It's about one ounce of each of the three meats. (The two-ounce packs of the La Quercia meats cost between five and six dollars each, which works out to about $40 a pound. Worth every penny!)</li>
<li>It' takes a while to separate the paper-thin slices of meat, even though they come with thin bits of paper between each slice. So this takes 10 minutes to prepare, at least. </li>
</ol>
About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-79456070097765389812013-02-07T18:08:00.000-08:002013-02-07T18:08:09.452-08:00Soupe de concombre: Cucumber soup<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x6DCxR4FouQ/URHATX9LIHI/AAAAAAAAARM/28vF5Db4YLE/s1600/IMG_0926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x6DCxR4FouQ/URHATX9LIHI/AAAAAAAAARM/28vF5Db4YLE/s400/IMG_0926.JPG" width="400" /></a>This to me is the essence of August in Iowa. Well, that and the State Fair. <br />
<br />
1 tablespoon mint leaves packed <br />
1 medium cucumber<br />
1 cup yogurt <br />
1 cup milk<br />
salt and pepper<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Process the mint leaves 10 seconds in a food processor or blender.</li>
<li>Peel and roughly chop the cucumber and process 30 seconds</li>
<li>Add the yogurt and skim milk, a pinch of salt and a pinch of white pepper, and process one second.</li>
<li>Correct seasoning and serve, garnished with mint leaves.</li>
</ol>
About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-62720720764412984412013-02-07T18:05:00.000-08:002013-02-07T18:05:23.531-08:00Mushrooms à la Grecque<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Q_DXY3coPY/URG7jFRkoII/AAAAAAAAAQs/mBbg6zfjm0w/s1600/IMG_0906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Q_DXY3coPY/URG7jFRkoII/AAAAAAAAAQs/mBbg6zfjm0w/s400/IMG_0906.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="clear: right; display: inline; float: none; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;">Mushrooms à </span>la Grecque is for Julia (MAFC I 537) a long process of making a court bouillon, slowly simmering the mushrooms or other vegetables in it, and finally reducing the bouillon. I speed up the process by using a good vegetable stock, which has already got the great vegetable flavors and been reduced. I then add the Greek flavors as the mushrooms are cooking. Fortunately, Wheatsfield coop has some really really good quality vegetable stock.<br />
<br />
I like this best with mushrooms, but it works very well with all kinds of vegetables. My favorite thing is to take this on a picnic.<br />
<br />
1 cup vegetable stock, best quality, low salt<br />
8 ounces small mushrooms or larger ones cut in half<br />
2 tablespoons lemon juice<br />
2 tablespoons olive oil<br />
6 peppercorns<br />
6 coriander seeds<br />
pinch of fennel seeds (1/8 teaspoon)<br />
two branches of celery leaves, chopped roughly<br />
pinch of thyme (1/8 teaspoon)<br />
salt and pepper to taste<br />
<ol>
<li>In a covered saucepan over high heat, bring the stock to a boil.</li>
<li>Add the mushrooms and cover. </li>
<li>Add the rest of the ingredients, recovering the pan and shaking it occasionally.</li>
<li>After eight minutes, remove the mushrooms, using a slotted spoon or skimmer.</li>
<li>Allow the stock to continue boiling for a minute. Then pour it over the mushrooms and refrigerate for six hours or overnight, covered.</li>
</ol>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2y1Zid6rGp4/URG7pdPRB6I/AAAAAAAAAQ0/1F5MAMvzO6A/s1600/IMG_0907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2y1Zid6rGp4/URG7pdPRB6I/AAAAAAAAAQ0/1F5MAMvzO6A/s320/IMG_0907.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-56089426413166472812013-02-07T16:31:00.000-08:002013-02-07T16:33:37.820-08:00Fish stew Burgundy--Matelote de poisson<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HFnnzQQdsd4/URG_V20Xo-I/AAAAAAAAARE/9ugXkCtwC6k/s1600/IMG_0911.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HFnnzQQdsd4/URG_V20Xo-I/AAAAAAAAARE/9ugXkCtwC6k/s400/IMG_0911.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
The best is Lotte, the lobster of fish, and the ugliest of fish too. But catfish will do nicely, as it is firm and holds up in the stewing (simmer only, please). You can use the catfish 'nuggets'--the meat from behind the gills. It comes with some skin. OK. My wife thinks this tastes 'rangey'--and she is a rancher's daughter. But I like it. It's a workman's (specifically fisherman's) dish after all. And it is priced like that--half of what the catfish fillets cost. But you can buy the catfish fillets and cut them in pieces. Fine. Or you can take out a second mortgage, travel to New York, and buy Lotte, which is called Monkfish or Angler Fish. God they are ugly.<br />
<br />
This is really a stew, so it's good to serve it in a big shallow bowl or deep plate. Have a soup spoon there, and good bread to soak up the soup. Toasted is nice. This you can have simmering away in 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Serves 3-4<br />
<br />
2 ounces lardons OR salt pork in 1/2 inch cubes, OR pancetta OR bacon in 1-inch pieces<br />
1 cup sliced onions (or 1/4 cup sliced onions and 12 small boiling onions, peeled and added later)<br />
1 tablespoon flour<br />
1 cup red wine, preferably Burgundy or Pinot Noir<br />
1 cup clam juice (or fish stock)<br />
pepper<br />
bay leaf<br />
1 allspice berry (or one clove)<br />
1 clove garlic, mashed<br />
salt (none if you use fish stock)<br />
8 ounces mushrooms, cut in half or quartered<br />
[optional: 2/3 cup frozen boiling onions]<br />
1 and 1/4 pounds catfish OR scallops, or other fish such as walleye, halibut, haddock, etc.<br />
<ol>
<li>In a fait-tout over high heat, cook the pork (no need to wait for the pan to heat).</li>
<li>Slice thinly and add the onions. Cook for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally</li>
<li>Add the flour and stir until it is browned, about 2 minutes</li>
<li>Add the rest of the ingredients except the fish and bring to a boil, stirring the bottom to incorporate the browned flour.</li>
<li>Add the fish pieces, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until the fish is done, about 8 to 10 minutes.</li>
<li>Serve in bowls, garnished with chopped parsley, along with bread or potatoes or pasta</li>
</ol>
About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-62406781246928428352013-01-27T14:58:00.000-08:002013-03-25T17:12:51.226-07:00Potage Magali: Mediterranean Tomato Soup with Rice<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LMLPkADfOL8/UQWwgXAW-mI/AAAAAAAAAQc/-32y7Pv3C4s/s1600/IMG_3033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LMLPkADfOL8/UQWwgXAW-mI/AAAAAAAAAQc/-32y7Pv3C4s/s400/IMG_3033.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Every year at the end of the season, Doug at the Farmer's Market in the North Grand Mall parking lot brings in big boxes of tomatoes to sell for real cheap. They aren't perfect but they ain't bad. And I just core them, seed them, and run them through the Cuisinart, skins an all, and right straight into three-cup plastic containers from the Dollar Store and then down in the freezer. Unpeeled. It takes almost no time. (See the comment in the introduction to this blog for who cleans up the mess.)<br />
<br />
Thawed in mid-winter, this tomato puree is a magic realist window on summer. It smells of August. And made into Julia's Mediterranean soup (MAFC II p. 20), it is August in Nice.<br />
<br />
Serves three or four<br />
<br />
1/2 cup onions chopped fairly fine<br />
2 garlic cloves pressed or chopped finely<br />
2 tablespoons olive oil<br />
3 cups tomato puree, canned, fresh or frozen (see above)<br />
1 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade<br />
1/2 cup cooked rice or 2 tablespoons raw rice (or 4 tablespoons couscous)<br />
1 teaspoon herbs de Provence or fresh herbs tied together<br />
salt and pepper to taste<br />
a small pinch of saffron, if you can afford it!<br />
<ol>
<li>Heat a heavy bottom sauce pan over medium heat. Chop the onions and add them with the olive oil, stirring occasionally, for about seven minutes.</li>
<li>Chop or press the garlic, and add it after about three minutes.</li>
<li>Assemble the rest of the ingredients, and add them to the pot after seven minutes. </li>
<li>Turn the heat to high for one minute, then down to simmer. Check seasoning and simmer on low for 30 minutes.</li>
<li>Garnish with herbs and serve.</li>
</ol>
<br />
<br />About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-17105349726921793242012-06-04T16:15:00.009-07:002012-06-14T11:13:34.530-07:00Braised endive / Endive<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xsS2DNDpTig/T8167AC3HZI/AAAAAAAAANo/P6Gtq_uoZPI/s1600/IMAG0311.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 191px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xsS2DNDpTig/T8167AC3HZI/AAAAAAAAANo/P6Gtq_uoZPI/s320/IMAG0311.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5750387453264862610" border="0" /></a>Belgian endive, braised MAFC I 493). Yumm. I ate this all over Belgium and northern France, Albertville, for example.<br /><span class="Apple-style-span">A pressure cooker makes this easy, as with most braises. Vegetables or meats.<br />Serves from 1 to 12<br /><ul><li>For each medium endive, with tight leaves, beautifully light green.</li><li>1 tablespoon butter</li><li>tiny pinch of salt</li><li>two grinds of fresh pepper</li><li>lemon juice--a small squirt</li></ul><ol><li>Heat a pressure cooker on high</li><li>Spray the bottom of the pressure cooker with oil or smear with butter<br /></li><li>Halve each endive and cut off the stem end if necessary</li><li>Place in layers in the cooker, cut side down</li><li>Sprinkle the top (uncut) side of each half with a tiny pinch of salt, a grind or two of pepper, a squirt of lemon juice, and a teaspoon of butter</li><li>Seal with the cover and cook under pressure for seven minutes.</li><li>Release the pressure and remove the endives, cut side up, to a platter or plates.</li><li>Garnish with chopped chives or parseley</li><li>[These will keep in the refrigerator for a week, to reheat or prepare as in the variations below.]<br /><br /></li></ol><p><b><i>Variation 1</i></b><br /></p>This takes more than 10 minutes, but not much.<br /><br />1. While the endives are cooking, preheat the broiler.<br />2. For each two whole endives (four halves) mix together one half cup cream and one egg. or 2/3 cup béchamel sauce.<br />3. Lay on a baking dish as many thin slices of boiled ham as there are whole (two halves) endives.<br />4. When the endives are done, wrap each endive (two halves) in ham.<br />5. Slather the cream and egg mixture </span>(or béchamel) over the endive.<span class="Apple-style-span"><br />6. Grate about two tablespoons Swiss or Gruyere cheese on top of each endive (two halves).<br />7. Broil for three minutes or until the cheese is golden brown.</span><div><span class="Apple-style-span">8. Garnish with chopped parsley, chives, or other herbs.<br /><br /><br /></span></div>About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-80644491790026573312010-11-21T19:10:00.000-08:002010-11-23T17:05:00.620-08:00Amuse-Gueule de Roquefort<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TOxkrFELtWI/AAAAAAAAAII/MSbuQVhiYPw/s1600/Julia%2Bdips%2B004.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TOxkrFELtWI/AAAAAAAAAII/MSbuQVhiYPw/s320/Julia%2Bdips%2B004.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542915932643112290" border="0" /></a><br />J has loved blue cheese ever since we discovered it on our honeymoon in Europe in 1977. She would buy it in every new town, at a cheese shop, and put it in her purse. We ate it for lunch most every day, back when Europe was $10 a day. And she still loves it. Now we live in Iowa, where there's good <a href="http://www.maytagdairyfarms.com/aspx/welcome.aspx">Maytag</a> blue. And in Ames, where at Iowa State University they created the <a href="http://www.ag.iastate.edu/coa150/pop12_3.php">first process for making blue from cow's milk</a>, homogenized.<br /><br />This is a recipe for cheese balls in Julia (MAFC I p. 196). But I just use it to top crackers or toast rounds.<br /><br />4 ounces blue cheese<br />1 tablespoon chopped chives or green onion tops.<br />3 tablespoons softened butter<br />1 tablespoon finely minced celery<br />Pinch of cayenne pepper<br />4 turns of a pepper mill<br />1 teaspoon cognac or two or three drops Worcestershire sauce<br /><ol><li>In a food processor fitted with the steel blade, blend the ingredients until smooth. </li><li>Garnish with more chopped chives or green onion tops<br /></li></ol>About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-9364934618872098402010-11-21T15:14:00.000-08:002011-08-30T10:20:22.047-07:00Eggplant Caviar: La Tentation de Bramafam<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TOxinUs_zSI/AAAAAAAAAIA/RG-XLhS4TvQ/s1600/Julia%2Bdips%2B002.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TOxinUs_zSI/AAAAAAAAAIA/RG-XLhS4TvQ/s320/Julia%2Bdips%2B002.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542913669098097954" border="0" /></a>
<br />This dip or <span style="font-style: italic;">amuse bouche </span>or <span style="font-style: italic;">amuse gueule</span> (on a cracker or toast round) is straight out of Julia (MAFC II p. 353), except you nuke the eggplant in its skin instead of baking it in its skin. That means you have to find small eggplants so it will cook in 5 minutes--about 8 ounces each. It keeps two days and freezes beautifully. You can double the recipe easily, but again you must use small eggplants or microwave them longer (then you are into 14 minute territory. Horrors!).
<br />
<br />Makes about 24 cracker toppers
<br />
<br />Two small eggplants, totaling about one pound
<br />4 ounces walnuts (pieces are fine but some whole ones for garnish is nice)
<br />1/2 teaspoon salt
<br />four turns of a pepper mill
<br />2 large cloves, peeled
<br />2-3 squirts tabasco
<br />1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
<br />2/8 teaspoon powdered ginger
<br />4 tablespoons olive oil
<br /><ol><li>Cut off the green ends from the eggplants and microwave on high for 5 minutes.</li><li>In a food processor fitted with the steel blade, chop the garlic. Then add the rest of the ingredients except the olive oil and process one second to mix.
<br /></li><li>Prepare the crackers or toasts and get out an oven mitt.
<br /></li><li>When the eggplant is done, using the oven mitt, halve each lengthwise and with a spoon scrape out the flesh.</li><li>Add it to the processor bowl and process until grainy but blended, about 8 to 12 seconds, adding the olive oil in a stream. </li><li>Spoon a bit on each cracker or toast, and garnish with optional walnut halves. Or simply serve in a bowl as a spread.
<br /></li></ol>About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-38720552896832932322010-11-12T15:32:00.000-08:002010-11-20T14:15:25.030-08:00Lamb neck, Collier d'agneau.: La clapassade d'agneau sauce grisette<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TOhFfSj_UrI/AAAAAAAAAH4/QOtghEMg6Vk/s1600/Lamb%2Bneck%2Bbraised%2B001.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TOhFfSj_UrI/AAAAAAAAAH4/QOtghEMg6Vk/s320/Lamb%2Bneck%2Bbraised%2B001.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5541755745340445362" border="0" /></a>Reglisse is licorice. Yes, I know this is a bit bizarre, but read on. I was in Paris a few years ago eating with my dear colleague Tiane at an art nouveau restaurant called <a href="http://www.bouillon-racine.com/en/restaurant/index.html">Le Bouillon Racine</a> on the Left Bank near the Sorbonne (Rue Racine). It opened over a hundred years ago to serve working class and petit bourgeoisie a lovely meal in a elegant setting for a good price, so the food was mostly soups and braises--the first fast food, in a way. The place was a cafeteria for Sorbonne professors for many years, but rather recently reopened in restored <span style="font-style: italic;">fin de siecle</span> glory, green and glass.<br /><br />I was intrigued by the souris d'agneau a la reglisse. Literally mouse of lamb with licorice. The "mouse" is a small shank, which resembles a rodent in shape and, well, color. I had to try it, and it was delicious, with a hint of sweetness I sometimes like in lamb (think mint sauce) and that amazing licorice flavor.<br /><br />Then just last week I heard a program about a new dish of lamb and licorice, this time using the neck or "collier." It was on <a href="http://www.franceculture.com/emission-carnet-nomade-des-gouts-et-des-couleurs-2010-10-17.html">Carnet Nomade</a>, one of my favorites on France Culture radio, a program about the city of Montpellier having had a competition to choose a dish that would (in the best french sense of Le Marketing) be the city's culinary signature, as cassoulet is for Toulouse or brandade is for Nimes. They called the dish (before it was even chosen) <a href="http://www.pourcel-chefs-blog.com/blog1/2010/10/20/la-clapassade-la-recette/">La Clapassade</a> (which means something like 'cup of stones'). The winner: A student of linguistics from Quebec, <a href="http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xfbkdy_cuisinez-la-clapassade_lifestyle">Michel Otel,</a> who made it from signature products of Herault province, including a licorice candy called grisettes. I had to try it (I stayed last year in Montpellier for a few days with a professor of linguistics from the university. Fate.)<br /><br />But where to find suitable licorice? They don't just melt in the black ropes we eat here. They use licorice root, which apparently french children used to (still do?) eat in sticks, which look like bark, and which you can simply drop into the braise (see the video below of the creator of the dish preparing it). Fortunately, our amazing <a href="http://local.wheatsfield.coop/">Wheatsfield</a> coop has an "herbal" section that included licorice root, though it was chopped, so I had to wrap it in cheesecloth before adding it.<br /><br />Oh, and of course where to find lamb neck! The answer is, as so often, the <a href="http://www.ucs.iastate.edu/mnet/isumeatscience/about.html">ISU Meat Lab</a>. They have it in slices about an inch thick. The French apparently will bone the neck for a large braising piece, or cut the meat off the bones. But simpler is faster. And I guess you can substitute another fatty, bony cut, like breast of lamb (Denver ribs or lamb ribs) or, as in Paris, shank.<br /><br />J and I think this is a winner. And it's definitely 10 minutes or less active time, though divided into two, five minute segments, about eight hours apart. As with most braises, this is even better warmed up the next day. And the leftover sauce is amazing on, well, leftovers. But if you pour this over rice or noodles or polenta, you'll have little sauce left, it's so good.<br /><br />Serves 2-4<br /><br />3 pounds lamb neck slices, bone in (four slices about 1 inch thick)<br />1 packet dry french onion soup mix (I use Knorr)<br />1 cup dry white wine<br />1 cup chicken stock (homemade if possible. See this blog)<br />1 ounce licorice root, tied in cheesecloth<br />2 tablespoons honey<br />1/2 teaspoon Kitchen Magic (optional)<br />4 small carrots, peeled (optional)<br />2 small parsnips, peeled and halved (optional)<br />5 sprigs thyme (optional) OR lemon or lime zest (optional)<br />Green olives (optional)<br />2 tablespoons Wondra<br /><ol><li>In a slow cooker, place the lamb neck slices, the soup mix, wine, stock, licorice root bag, and honey.<br /></li><li>Stir in the optional Kitchen Magic and top with the optional carrots and parsnips, and one sprig of thyme.</li><li>Cook on low for about 8 hours.</li><li>In a small saucepan, stir together the Wondra a two tablesoons of water, white wine, or stock.<br /></li><li>Using a strainer, carefully pour the liquid from the slow cooker into a <a href="http://www.3stepads.com/342303/gravy-fat-separator-and-measuring-cup-4-cup-capacity/">gravy separator </a>(which I didn't do for the pic above :-(). Wait 15 seconds, then pour the stock into the saucepan and place over high heat, stirring, until thickend slightly. About one minute. Correct the seasoning.</li><li>Using a spatula, carefully place one or two lamb slices on each plate (they are fall-apart tender). Arrange the optional carrots and parsnips. Pour sauce around and garnish with thyme sprigs, zest, or green olives. Pass the extra sauce or reserve for another use (delicious on leftovers).<br /></li></ol>About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-50821921422040730182010-11-06T19:26:00.000-07:002010-11-24T04:11:24.449-08:00Poulet sauté<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TO0Aq2A3UvI/AAAAAAAAAIY/26XcHuyOfkU/s1600/IMG_0839.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TO0Aq2A3UvI/AAAAAAAAAIY/26XcHuyOfkU/s320/IMG_0839.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543087452416594674" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.labellecuisine.com/archives/poultry/Simple%20Saute%20of%20Chicken%20with%20Herbs%20-%20Julia%20Child.htm">Julia prefers thighs for sautes.</a> I do too. And if they are boned, they cook in 10 minutes flat, with time to make a quick sauce. Nowadays, I can get them at the big supermarkets in the little packages of four. But usually I go to Fareway, buy hindquarters for 77 cents a pound, and bone my own. The legs I can roast later or turn into a leggy <span style="font-style: italic;">coq au vin</span>, and the rest goes to make crock pot chicken stock (same). Boned out, the thighs weigh in at 5 ounces, coming from one of the huge modern chickens. So one per person is enough.<br /><br />There are infinite variations to this possible, and I list some later, especially one that uses leftover sauce from a crock pot <span style="font-style: italic;">coq au vin</span> (pictured).<br /><br />Serves 4.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Poulet saut</span><span style="font-weight: bold;">é </span> (MAFC I 254).<br /><br />1 tablespoon butter<br />1 tablespoon olive oil (garlic flavored is nice)<br />Four boneless chicken thighs<br />Herbs de Provence (optional)<br />Shallot<br />1/4 cup white wine or dry vermouth<br />1/2 cup chicken stock (on this blog, though canned will do)<br />Chopped herbs (optional)<br /><ol><li>Melt butter and oil in a large skillet or fait-tout over high heat.<br /></li><li>Dry the top side of the thighs with a paper towel and season them with salt, pepper, and herbs de Provence.</li><li>When the butter is melted, place the thighs seasoned side down and then season the top side.<br /></li><li>Chop the shallot and the optional herbs.<br /></li><li>Turn the thighs after four minutes. They should be golden.<br /></li><li>Add the shallot.<br /></li><li>After three minutes more, or when they are slightly firm to the touch, remove them to a plate and cover.</li><li>Add the wine, stock, and half the herbs, scraping the browned bits with a wooden spoon. </li><li>Nap the thighs with the sauce and garnish with the remaining herbs.<br /></li></ol><span style="font-style: italic;">VARIATIONS</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Au vin<br /></span><span>Instead of wine and stock, use leftover sauce from Coq au Vin (pictured)</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TO0ASUCpleI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/69Z2IWJ5Bx0/s1600/IMG_0835.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TO0ASUCpleI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/69Z2IWJ5Bx0/s320/IMG_0835.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543087030980416994" border="0" /></a><br /><span><br /></span><span style="font-weight: bold;">A la creme</span> (MAFC I 256).<br />Instead of the stock, add 2/3 cup whipping cream or creme fraiche.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Herbs de Provence</span> (MAFC I 257).<br />Season the thighs with herbs de Provence and fennel seed<br />Flame the thighs with Pernod<br />Add 1 tablespoon minced garlic preserved in olive oil when you turn the chicken.<br />Add 2/3 cup mayonnaise (or light mayo) to the deglazing juices.<br />Garnish with 2 tablespoons basil, fennel tops, or parsley.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Doria</span> (from Escoffier)<br />Peel a cucumber and, using a melon baller, cut garlic-clove-sized pieces out. Microwave them with butter for three minutes. Add these, with the juice they render, with the wine to deglaze the pan and make the sauce.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Normandy</span><br />While the chicken is cooking, use an apple corer to core and cut the apple into 8 slices. Halve these crosswise and add them to the saute pan with the chicken. Shake the pan to coat the apples with the fat. Flame the thighs with Calvados. Deglaze with apple cider instead of wine.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Alsatian</span><br />Use pears and Poire William instead of apples and Calvados. Use a Riesling to deglaze.<br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span>About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-20295985853275619662010-08-24T18:45:00.000-07:002012-09-03T06:42:40.643-07:00Tarte aux pêches (Julia's way then mine)<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TPhLMx_dwFI/AAAAAAAAAJw/rUVyNJm2iY8/s1600/IMG_0824.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546265624056807506" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TPhLMx_dwFI/AAAAAAAAAJw/rUVyNJm2iY8/s320/IMG_0824.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 214px; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
Here's a great little tribute to Julia, and her peach (or apricot) tart (MAFC I p. 639), written just after her death for the <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A8355-2004Aug17.html">Washington Post</a>. I have simplified it just a bit to get it in the oven in 10 minutes flat, but I think it's almost as good. And then I add a recipe, just as fast, that is, in my experience, more typical of French cooking, with custard.<br />
<nitf><br />For 6 people<br /></nitf>Preheat oven to 375 degrees.<br />
<br />
9-inch pastry round (such as Pepperidge Farms)<br />
8 to 10 fresh apricots or 3 to 4 freestone peaches<br />
2/3 cup granulated sugar<br />
2 tablespoons butter, cut into pea-sized dots<br />
1/4 cup slivered almonds<br />
<nitf>1/2 cup apricot preserves</nitf> <br />
<ol>
<li><nitf>Halve and remove the pits from the peaches. </nitf>Cut the halves into slices.<nitf></nitf></li>
<li>Fit the prepared pastry into a fluted pastry pan with a removable bottom.</li>
<li><nitf>Sprinkle 3 tablespoons of sugar in the bottom of the pastry shell. </nitf></li>
<li><nitf>Place the peach slices in concentric circles, close together in the shell.</nitf></li>
<li><nitf>Sprinkle on the rest of the sugar. Dot with the butter.</nitf></li>
<li> <nitf>Bake in the middle level of the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until fruit has colored lightly and the juices have become syrupy.</nitf></li>
<li>Meanwhile, microwave the apricot preserves and 2 tablespoons of sugar for one minute. Set aside</li>
<li><nitf>Slip the tart onto a rack. Decorate with the slivered almonds, and spread on the apricot glaze.</nitf></li>
</ol>
<br />
And here's one with a custard, the way you see it in French pastry shops--and almost as pretty.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Tarte aux pêches et amandes</span><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TPhKI3GdI5I/AAAAAAAAAJo/2injFjDX2Fs/s1600/IMG_0819.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546264457197200274" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TPhKI3GdI5I/AAAAAAAAAJo/2injFjDX2Fs/s320/IMG_0819.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 214px; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<br />
Serves 6-8<br />
<br />
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees<br />
<br />
1 round of pastry for a 9 inch pie pan<br />
1/2 cup pulverized blanched almonds (4 ounces in a food processor with 1 tablespoon sugar)<br />
1/2 cup sugar<br />
1/2 cup heavy cream or creme fraiche<br />
2 eggs<br />
<ol>
<li>Lay the pastry over a 9 inch fluted tart shell with a removable bottom and crimp the edges.</li>
<li>Halve and remove the pits from three or four ripe peaches and arrange them tightly in the shell, cut side down.</li>
<li>Combine the other ingredients in a mixing bowl and beat with a wire whip until blended.</li>
<li>Pour the mixture over the peaches, pushing it off the tops of the peaches.</li>
<li>Bake at 400 degrees in the middle of the oven for 35 minutes, or until the crust is golden, the custard is golden in places, and set.</li>
<li>Let cool for an hour on a rack. Remove the tart by carefully pushing it up from the bottom.</li>
</ol>
<br />
All these very French, very easy peach tarts have almond powder. 10 minutes with a prepared crust and don't peel the peaches.<br />
http://www.750g.com/fiche_de_cuisine.2.123.4272.htm<br />
<br />
Much the same thing from Marmiton, with cream (not fraiche) and diced peaches.<br />
http://www.marmiton.org/recettes/recette_tarte-aux-peches-aux-amandes_37826.aspx<br />
<br />
Another similar: great photos<br />
http://lesbonsptiplats.canalblog.com/archives/2007/08/17/5879940.html<br />
<br />
Maizena is cornstarch!About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5940583166073123187.post-5495552572441670802010-08-11T17:57:00.000-07:002010-11-28T09:37:06.175-08:00Concombre sauté: Quick cukes: Sauteed cucumbers<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TPKSIESACBI/AAAAAAAAAJA/Faimx6741r8/s1600/IMG_0762.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 226px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_e3bQH11dhug/TPKSIESACBI/AAAAAAAAAJA/Faimx6741r8/s320/IMG_0762.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544654758532352018" border="0" /></a><br />Cucumbers are such an uninspiring vegetable. But they are always available, and cheap, and crunchy, and refreshing. And I am trying to find ways this summer to use them.<br /><br />Julia peels and slices and soaks them in vinegar for 30 minutes before baking them for an hour (MAFC p. 499). Lovely, and probably less than 10 minutes active time. But I never think ahead about veg. I want something to use those cukes in the frig now. I love sauteed zucchini, so why not cucumber? As is often the case, Emiril has good things to do with simple things.<br /><br />Serves two. Inspired by Emiril.<br /><br />one large cucumber (English or garden variety) or two small ones<br />1 teaspoon butter<br />1 teaspoon olive oil<br />chopped basil and/or mint, or dill<br />optional: fresh grated nutmeg, chopped garlic, minced shallot or scallion or green onion tops, added with about one minute left to go.<br /><ol><li>Heat the butter and oil in a large sauté pan.</li><li>Cut the ends off the cucumbers and halve lengthwise. With a spoon remove the seeds, if any. Slice about 1/3 inch thick.</li><li>Add the cucumbers and sauté, tossing when the cucumbers have browned a bit on one side. </li><li>Add the herbs, chopped, and toss. Grate a little of the optional nutmeg. Season and serve. </li></ol><span style="font-style: italic;"></span>About this bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09882904568030156061noreply@blogger.com1